Loaf

It's a funny old place, Deansgate Locks. Separated from a main road and a lot of advertising hoarding boards by a series of none-too-clean locks, this stretch of mainly chain venues nonetheless manages to cling on to a reputation as the flashiest, trendiest part of the city.

Nestled alongside the chaotic Baa Bar and the trendy-but-troubled Sugar Lounge is Loaf, a restaurant and bar with an astonishing 1200 capacity and a penchant for split levels. Exposed bricks and deep red feature in the decor, with floor-to-ceiling windows creating plenty of good posing opportunities and red carpet strips allowing you to embrace your inner VIP.

However, if you're more about pies than paparrazzi, you can bypass the bar area completely and head for the restaurant. Here Loaf adopts a more sedate, sophisticated approach with plenty of space between tables, candles and nice chairs. 

In many ways, the menu at Loaf sums up Deansgate Locks altogether. Looking at the clientele, decor and fashionable miasma of the place, you would be justified in expecting the menu to feature a dizzying mix of European fusion food. Perhaps you might imagine a locally-sourced menu giving the family history of each and every ingredient. At the very least, you might look out for gravy described as jus or mash described as fondant.

You are less likely to be expecting an unashamedly traditional 'pub grub' menu at astonishingly reasonable prices (especially given the price of the drinks in the neighbouring bars). There is one menu served all day, beginning with sharing plates or small dishes (one for £2.75, four for £8) such as chicken wings, onion rings and chips. There are slightly more interesting options - for example, cripsy baby potatoes with a choice of chorizo, mushroom and stilton or chili con carne at £3.75.

The menu goes on to offer a range of burgers - £3.95 for a classic, £4.25 for spinach, lentil and red onion - wraps and baguettes before hitting the mains. Even here, the selection stays faithful to the old favourites with steak and ale pie, chicken tikka masala and vegetable lasagne.

Despite hefty portions and quick service, you might wonder why you would choose to eat here over anywhere else, especially when Deansgate Locks is supposed to be so fashionable. After all, there's nothing particularly fashionable about bangers and mash. But with so much emphasis on the fashionable, the trendy and the stylish, finding a bar serving straightforward bar food is actually something of a relief. It could be that Loaf is the most genuine place in Deansgate Locks, and we'll happily scoff a chip to that.