Fugu

The name comes from the Japanese word for blowfish and is also a dish created from the meat of the same venomous creature. For anybody that has not yet ventured within the premises formerly known as The Clock Tower in Didsbury, those are two huge hints as to this restaurant and bar’s new purpose. Not that the banned puffer is on the menu, but plenty of other aquatic delights are.

The interior has undergone a radical transformation into a vibrant, restaurant that avoids crossing the line into being garish or over-themed. Paint and lighting are in deep tones of orange, red and purple, seating is a mix of table dining and booths and the environment is sealed, without any windows on the outside world. There are Japanese cocktails, spirits and international beers (Asahi, Peroni, etc) alongside various wines, champagnes and sakis. As an example there are eight varieties of rum.

Having lubricated your taste buds, it’s on to the menu. The appetisers include Ebi Dango, which are deep fried, minced, king prawn balls in Nambanzuke sauce (£8.00), Yawata Maki (a stuffed sirloin beef at £8.50) and a selection of soups (£3.50-£5.50) and a crab roll (£12.80). It’s with acute awareness that we note the prices. Some of those amounts will buy a main course in many restaurants. Speaking of which, Kamo Teppan caught our eye. It’s grilled duck breast fillet with orange Teriyaki sauce that will set you back £15.00. Suzuki Teppan (a pan-fried sea bass with red peppers and green beans in a ginger coconut sauce for £14.00) also caught our eye. Of course there are many smaller dishes of sushi to choose from and it’s possible to treat Fugu as if it’s a Japanese tapas restaurant, sampling bites of different things. But this is a genuine dining experience with the service to match, rather than a casual, grab-a-bite-at-lunchtime Japanese fling that some other restaurants offer.

Given that three courses for two people plus drinks can reach £100 without much effort, this isn’t likely to be a regular option for most folk, although the Didsbury location, and the fact that Fugu stands out among this chain café blands-ville, will work in its favour.