Negresco

Imagine the scene. It's Friday 13th. You've booked a date with the hottest vampire this side of Transylvania. You've got your cape, you've got your Brylcreem and you're ready to go... But where to take them? You could go to Prohibition but it's a bit too sparkly. You could go to Lounge 10 but, frankly, who can afford to at those prices? You start to panic until you stumble across a little restaurant on Deansgate - blacked-out windows, human skull on the sign outside. Negresco. Perfect.

All joking aside, Negresco is a bit of an odd place. The dimly-lit restaurant is a mixture of gothic red velvet curtains, dark wood floors, murals of Renaissance figures in opera masks and mounted animal skulls. According to the creators it takes its inspiration from a Venetian restaurant of the same name, one of the oldest restaurants in the city, but we can't help thinking more of gothic horror and the sensuality of Kubrick's Eyes Wide Shut. However, if you don't mind the stuffed animals it ceratinly makes a refreshing change from the usual glass-and-chrome affairs around town.

The menu is mainly Italian with the odd nod to other European cuisines thrown in for good measure. Standards like Garlic Bread Pizza (£3.05) sit nicely alongside more interesting starters like the heavenly Insalata di Pollo Affumicata at £4.45 (rosemary scented chicken with olives, cherry tomatoes and berry vinaigrette). Our tip is to go for the Sampler Board, which lets you try a combination of four different hot starters for £9.95. Bargain.

You'll be glad that you did concentrate on the starters because the mains, though perfectly adequate, don't show nearly as much imagination. The menu splits into the three directions of pizza, pasta or grill. Pizzas are well-executed featuring options like the Salmoni Affumicati (smoked salmon and marscapone) or the Polpette (pork and beef meatballs with parmesan), both at £9.45. The pastas are a little disappointing, with standard options like the Frutti Di Mare (a combination of clams, mussells and prawns on linguine) and Classic Carbonara (pancetta, garlic, cream and parmesan) both at £8.95 dominating over the more interesting Risotto del Pepe (goats cheese and peppadew pepper risotto) at £7.95. The gril and meats selection offers steaks, fish such as Black Seabass and traditional meat dishes such as Pan Fried Veal for prices between £11 and £16. Sides check in at £1.00 for sauces and £2.35 for vegetables or potatoes.

Desserts are standard fare for an Italian restaurant, with the obligatory creme brulee (this time with a cinammon twist), a pannacotta and a cheese board. We recommend the Chocolate Daquiose, which features chocolate, hazelnuts and pistachio ice cream for £4.55.

If this menu was served up somewhere a little more restrained, it might have the chance to shine on its own - as it is, there is the danger that the food will end up playing second fiddle to the dramatic surroundings. However, if what you want is a restaurant with the wow factor, and especially if you want that wow factor to impress someone with a taste for the gothic, Negresco is a good choice.